Like much of Canada, European settlement of the Okanagan began with the fur trade. The fur trade had steadily spread out across eastern Canada and into the prairies, while the work of explorers such as David Thompson, Simon Fraser, and Lewis and Clark had put the waterways of the west on the map. With competition between rival fur companies across Canada and the United States at a fever pitch, it was time to head west.
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One of the major figures in the history of the Okanagan fur trade was German-American businessman, investor, and merchant John Jacob Astor. He began amassing what would become a considerable fortune through the fur trade, before diversifying into real estate investments and by smuggling opium into China, eventually becoming the first multi-millionaire businessman in the United States. His role in the fur trade began in the Great Lakes region, forming the American Fur Trade Company, under the umbrella of which he organized the Pacific Fur Co. Traders. His company founded the first American settlement on the Pacific Coast in 1811, which would bear the name "Fort Astoria."
For traders based in the eastern United States and the Great Lakes, reaching the Pacific Coast and the mouth of the Columbia River was no easy feat. There were two options - sailing around South America’s Cape Horn, then going north to the Columbia River (today, the location of Astoria, Oregon) or going across the continent and passing through the dangerous Rocky Mountains. Once the fort was established, they had a simple question: How do we get furs from Fort St. James (which was in modern day northern British Columbia) to Oregon, where they can be shipped to European markets? The Fraser and Columbia Rivers each composed significant legs of the journey, but a long stretch in the middle would have to be traversed by land.
The Fur Brigade Trail, as it would come to be called, began at Fort Alexandria (about 60 km south of present-day Quesnel) and ended at Fort Okanogan in Washington State, where the Okanogan River met the Columbia. In 1812, traders from Fort Astoria founded Fort Kamloops and began trading furs in the region, and in 1814 a group had wintered at the head of Okanagan Lake and had acquired a good collection of furs by the spring. By 1824, the entirety of the Fur Brigade Trail was established along the western side of the lakes in the Okanagan Valley. Much of the trail followed ancient routes used by the First Nations, referred to by the Syilx (Okanagan) People n̓ q̓ aq̓lx̌aqas, which means "the trail Indigenous people walk."
A "brigade" was composed of hunters, cooks, packers, rangers, and fur traders leading as many as 300 horses, each carrying up to 80 kg of pelts. The brigade also had to carry all of the goods they needed for sustenance and trade. During the course of a journey, a few hunters went ahead of the bulk of the brigade to obtain fresh meat, and prepare the next camp.
The trail passed through Peachland, where it wound down from Shingle Creek to Garnet Valley passing through the bulk of modern-day Peachland. It likely ran a little above the thick lakeshore brush, around the level of Renfrew Road. A common stop was at May Springs, which was just below the intersection of Princeton and Somerset Avenue. It crossed Deep Creek at Antler’s Beach and Trepanier Creek near Lambly Park.
The Chronicles of Peachland writes about how this return to the lakeside must have been a relief for the traders, "One can easily imagine how welcome a swim in the lake would have been after the hot dusty trail from Shingle Creek, Garnet Valley, and down over the mountain to Deep Creek."1 Anyone who has experienced the searing Okanagan heat would likely agree.
In 1846, the Oregon Treaty was signed, establishing the border between the United States and British North America. This treaty situated the southern portion of the Trail in U.S. territory. Due to this, the existing route was abandoned in favour of an all-Canadian route, which went from Fort Kamloops to a Canadian distribution centre at Fort Langley. The trail had a brief resurgence after the onset of the 1858 Cariboo Gold Rush when American prospectors streamed up to the Caribou through any route possible, but this Gold Rush soon petered out and the trail once again slowed.
When Peachland’s founder, J.M. Robinson got his first lot in the area in 1902, the old trail would still have existed, the precise route it took through the community has unfortunately now been lost.
1. The Peachland Historical Society, The Chronicles of Peachland: History of the Years from the Beginning until 1983 (Kelowna: Kettle Valley Graphics, 2017), 4.